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DINING

Must-try classic restaurants in North Jersey

Esther Davidowitz
Food Editor, @EstherDavido
Paramus restaurant The Fireplace.

Every other day it seems another restaurant shuts its doors. But in North Jersey there are restaurants whose kitchens keep going and going and going. Here are eight of the oldest and best North Jersey classic restaurants, all of them at least three decades old; a few nearly a century old. From a legendary hot dog joint to a whimsical luncheonette to a haute-cuisine establishment, these restaurants have clearly stood the test of time.

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Rutt's Hutt

Rutt's Hut has been serving its rippers (deep fried hot dogs) with special housemade relish since 1928 in Clifton NJ,

Where: 417 River Road, Clifton. 973-779-8615, ruttshut.com.

The details: Sure, you can go to Rutt's Hutt, a nearly 90-year-old cash-only no-frills joint, and get yourself a burger, a sandwich, or even a roast or steak. But first you must devoured its super-famous ripper, deep-fried hot dog that tears apart while it cooks, ergo its name.  Order a ripper and slather it with the Rutt's nearly-as-famous, house-made mustard-based relish. The ripper costs $2.20.  The cost to transport you and your dining companions to a bygone era when cholesterol hadn't yet scared the bejeezus out of us: $0.

The Fireplace

Food at Fireplace Restaurant

Where: 718 Route 17 North, Paramus. 201-444-2362; thefireplacerestaurant.com.

The details: Many customers who come to The Fireplace don't bother looking at the menu board. They have been coming to the 61-year-old all-counter diner-and-burger joint for years, and know it by heart. "There are people who come here daily," said Patrick Reilly, the owner and son of founder Frank Reilly, a Navy-vet-turned-FBI-agent-turned restaurateur. Many North Jerseyans have had their first date or class reunion(s) here. "The Fireplace reminds them of their youth," Reilly said. With its original oak tables (they're varnished every 10 years), slate floors, brick walls and wagon-wheel chandeliers, The Fireplace looks as if it was frozen in time in the '50s. The menu, however, hasn't.  In addition to its original menu items of burgers and hot dogs, today you can get a roast beef sandwich, thinly-sliced steak sandwich, pizza, and even pancakes and eggs (breakfast service started in 1976). You can also order a veggie burger or a salad. "Used to be the only vegetable you can get here was the pickles on your burger," Reilly said. Restaurants, he said, "have to adapt."  He added: "On Yelp someone wrote, 'Old-school quickness done to perfection.' That sums us up."

Baumgart's

The fountain area at Baumgart's at 45 E Palisade Ave in Englewood.

Where: 45 E. Palisade Ave., Englewood, 201-569-6267; 59 The Promenade, Edgewater. 201-313-3889; 158 Franklin Ave., Ridgewood.  201-612-5688; baumgartscafe.com.

The details: Once upon a time there was only one Baumgart's Cafe, a quaint '50s-retro eatery on Englewood's main drag that nearly every kid— and adult — in the area frequented to get a scoop or two of its calories-be-damned homemade ice cream or thick milkshake. Today there are three Baumgart's (branches have opened in Ridgewood and Edgewater), and kids — and their parents — still come in regularly for stool seats at the old-fashioned soda-fountain for ice cream Sundaes, old-fashioned egg creams or a thick slice of pecan pie. But they also come to snatch space in one of the brightly colored vinyl booths and have  sushi, diner food, Chinese fare, even Thai dishes. Yes it's a mishmash, a menu designed to please just about any eater. Our favorites from the extensive menu: the famous sesame noodles ($7), the chunky chicken salad with walnuts on pumpernickel raisin bread ($9); steamed open-faced dumplings filled with chicken ($8); and sizzling duck crepe, tofu skins stuffed with sliced duck breast ($9). And of course ice cream.  Among our favorite flavors: espresso coffee and black raspberry. Yum.

Berta's Chateau

20022815A WANAQUE   09/20/16

 Copy photo of the wedding reception for Nate Bernstein and his wife Delia Berta Bernstein, taken October 1950  at Berta's Chateau in Wanaque.  The couple are the parents of the current  owner Peter Bernstein.

Where: 7 Grove St., Wanaque. 973-835-0992, bertaschateau.com.

The details: Ah, remember those halcyon days when families would sit down and eat a great big meal together without worrying about their waistlines or what's on the tele? Those days— evenings actually — can still be had at the nearly nine decades old Berta's Chateau, a North Italian restaurant where a hearty four-course prix-fixe dinner has been offered for seemingly ever.  Sure it may cost a bit more today ($31 and up, depending on main course) than it did in 1940 ($12.50), but it is still a lot of food (belt-loosening, in fact). So go hungry:  "People don't eat like they used to," says Peter Bernstein, the grandson of Pietro and Santina Berta, who founded the restaurant. Bernstein today runs the 190-seat restaurant. "People are full before they begin."  May we suggest the classic minestrone, homemade green noodles, the breast of chicken Pietro stuffed with veal and herbs, and the homemade Italian rum cake that Mrs. Berta used to make. And as always, the entree is served family-style with a great big helping of "farina dolce," a kind of deep-fried polenta dish. "It comes with every main course," Bernstein says. "People come here who haven't been here for years, and ask, 'Do you still have that?' This place," he says, "is steeped in history."

Saddle River Inn

Saddle River Inn.

Where: 2 Barnstable Court, Saddle River. 201-825-4016, saddleriverinn.com.

The details: It's not easy to chop, dice and sauté in the same kitchen a culinary legend had chopped, diced and sautéed before you.. But chef and co-owner Jamie Knott has managed to wow critics and diners alike after taking over the Saddle River Inn, the beloved contemporary French restaurant, from legendary chef Hans Egg. Knott's menu is ambitious; his talent deep. The Record awarded him 3½ out of 4 stars and the restaurant was just nominated for the first Garden State Culinary Arts Best Restaurant award. Still on the menu but somewhat tweaked is Egg's signature dish, the "maribar," ($45), a center-cut filet mignon bathed in a creamy Bearnaise sauce with chestnut purée and a buttery Idaho potato gratin. It's still a must-have. But perhaps you'd rather try the Colorado lamb loin with truffled peas ($45) or the rock shrimp risotto with butternut squash ($35). Go for it. Knott doesn't disappoint. And do bring a nice bottle of wine with you — this place is BYOB.And after dessert — highly recommended: the peanut butter mousse — take a casual stroll around the nearby pond and start planning your next visit.

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Tick Tock Diner 

Tick Tock Diner

Where: 281 Allwood Road, Clifton. 973-777-0511, http://ticktockdiner.com/

The details: Just about everyone in the Garden State has heard of the Tick Tock Diner, if not dined there. And if you are among the few who still haven't, what are you waiting for? Hop into your car and go experience a delightful piece of NJ history: the 24-hour diner. Go for breakfast, lunch, dinner or anytime in-between. And no matter what you order — whether it's a Brooklyn omelette (with lox and capers), buttermilk pancakes, a Reuben, classic meatloaf, chipotle meatloaf,  rigatoni Bolognese or just a creamy milkshake (let's just say the menu is long) — make sure to get a side of disco fries: a Jersey diner staple that's nearly impossible to get anywhere else but this state.

Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern

HO-HO-KUS INN:  Grilled marinated octopus; toasted fennel chorizo couscous; piquillo pepper-romesco dauce.    Carmine Galasso/Staff Photographer.

Where: 1 E. Franklin Turnpike, Ho-Ho-Kus. 201-445-4115, hohokusinn.com.

The details: Talk about history. This venerable inn, listed on the National Register of Historic Place, was built in 1790 as a private home. For a time, it served as a church and a resting house, and first became a tavern in 1830. It changed hands many times. In the 1980s, when President Richard Nixon lived nearby, it was his favorite restaurant. In 2009, the inn was bought by Ho-Ho-Kus residents and longtime fans of the inn Gordon and Laurie Hamm. But enough about history. Let's talk food. Specifically duck. The inn is famous for its way with ducks. Over the years, restaurant reviewers have gone gaga over whatever the duck dishes this venerable 170-seat spot has had on its menu. (BTW: Duck foie gras was a Nixon favorite.) On the menu currently: roasted duck breast served with scallion pancake atop a mustard seed sauce ($34). Order it; odds are you'll flip for it.. And consider, too, starting your meal with another winner: an appetizer of sliced grilled octopus atop couscous flavored with chorizo and fennel ($16). And relax. This is a place to enjoy a leisurely dinner and savor the timeless charm of this 200-plus-year-old structure.

Cafe Panache

Cafe Panache in Ramsey.

Where: 130 E Main St, Ramsey  201-934-0030 http://cafepanachenj.com

The details: There's a reason Cafe Panache, a charming French bistro in Ramsey, has been going strong for more than 30 years. Chef and owner Kevin Kohler will tell you it's because he works hard. We won't argue. We'll just add that his food, which he works hard to procure, prep, cook and present, is darn delicious. Café Panache received a 4-star review from The Record soon after it opened (and 3 ½ stars a couple of years ago); 3 stars from The New York Times; and 3-star reviews twice from New Jersey Monthly, which has named it several years in a row as one of the state's Top 25 Restaurants. This year, Kohler has been nominated for the first Garden State Culinary Arts "Culinary Legend" award. Just one bite into his signature filet mignon ravioli ($30) or his crispy confit duckling ($36) and you'll understand why Cafe Panache's doors remain open when so many other restaurants have shuttered.

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